Don't let them fool you.....

I, in my innocence, thought that the mediterranean area was a benign climate with warmth and reliable sunshine. I planned this trip to take advantage of the 'good' weather in southern Europe in the early part of the year, and then to use the 'high' season in the UK to go places that I know and can manage the cost.
Well I can confirm that southern France, Italy and Croatia are b****y cold, very wet and very windy. Don't be fooled by the travel writers, the travel agents or the poseurs. Europe is a COLD Continent and do not fool yourself into thinking otherwise.
I speak as I find. The weather has been a third of the time cold and wet, a third of the time quite dodgey, and one third good. The last few days have been bad. It started with high blustery winds, then cold and then heavy rain. For me, an Englishman, and Boy Scout, to have to break out the heavy weather S'Wester, my brogues, long pants and to storm rig the awning was quite a surprise and a big disappointment. I even put the roof down on the van for fear of being blown over! My advise to anyone thinking about travelling by campervan in Europe is to get a HEATER! Bring woolies and boots and heavy raincoats and plenty of reliable storm gear. Be prepared to sit out long storms and periods of rubbish weather and never forget that, whilst it might be lovely and warm and sunny during the day, the temperature can and will drop from 32deg to 2 deg(or worse) between teatime and bedtime. You have been warned.
In fact the weather is more extreme here in SW France, and try sitting in your lounge with the thermometer on 12 deg and see what madam thinks of that. And the sea! it is 16 deg and decidedly cold thank you very much.
So I was fed up after days sitting about battened down and only the patchy internet connection to occupy my mind I happened upon something maybe worthwhile. The SW coast of France is not very pretty. If you saw my post from the Cote D'Azure (the SE coast) you will see style and class and serious beauty. Hereabouts it is very ordinary especially if the weather is bad. A bit like Blackpool really, and they have a funfare up the way....
Ever heard of William of Orange? Well you should have if you remember your history, and those in N Ireland (noyrinde) know all about 'King Billy'.
It turns out that not far from here is a place called Saint Guilheim-le-Desert. It is recommended as one of the plus beaux villages de France (the most beautiful villages of France).
Well I was up for that. The Gorge Du Tarn require a more serious and extensive investigation, and Tina has already done that, so the upper reaches of the Herault River were my destination.
It goes back to the Emperor Charlemagne, the big bloke, 7 ft tall, in charge of Europe about 750AD. Turns out that the man William (Guilhem) was a pretty good chap, and cousin, fighting wars and opponents for Charlemagne but he was away doing his stuff and when he returned to claim his rewards, everybody else had already been there and the good bits had been handed out. I know the feeling. Eventually Guilhem had to make do with some dodgey land in Gaul and had to fight the Moors to get it. As you might expect Charlemagne was quite happy about this, muggins William was quite within favour, going and expanding the empire, at no cost to the establishment.
William settled in his hard won patch, lost his first wife, and took up with Princess Orible of Orange (I kid you not). Maybe this drove him to religion but the result was the founding of the Orange dynasty that  still rules today in the Netherlands, and has a major impact in British history. William (Guilhem) was such a good chap developing the monastery at the village the church made him a saint. Of course several centuries later the French revolutionaries wrecked the place and the result was the Americans bought up the stoneware and the cloisters of the original monastery are in the USA.
I have read all the PR, and with directions from 'viamichelin' set off for the village of Saint William the Deserving, Saint Guilheim-le-Desert, which is 'hewn from the rocks of the Herault Gorges'.

Here we are, chez nous, with the sun shining and the temp 28 deg. Sunglasses and clogs ready for the beach.......

4 hours later and the Khyam is puffed up, storm lashed and the lid is down on the van. A few days of this and we are ready for something else. Packing up and going home is an option under consideration.

You need to remember that all the pics from now on are taken in the p****g rain, like, Coniston style (OK, maybe a bit warmer.....)

The Herault River emerges from the Gorge.

Whilst today the river very passive, the rocks bear the signs of millions of year's flood and turmoil.

Quite calm really...but look at the turbulence in the rocks!

The village of Saint Guilhem is up the Herault valley, not far from where the river emerges into the plain.

The Church is the most prominent feature. I usually do not promote the buildings of the religious establishments, not least because I live in sight of one of the most renown of them all, and because religion is the cause of so much grief. But here I had quite an unusual experience and maybe there is something in it after all. But go when it is quiet and sit in this church and maybe you will find what I found that day.

The village is famous for its waterfalls.

The penthouse is a wreck!

Can you smell/feel the comfort of this little village. 

Shambolick roofs!

But quaint doors and gardens.........Green Paradise.

There are arches

and more arches

and even more arches.....

Entries lead up to little passages.

No traffic..

little lanes lead off....

Now whilst there are shops selling tourist 'stuff' the premises are invariably classy, stylish and done in good taste.

There are lots of them.

OK, blue ones...

And blue birds..

The most stylish and pretty!

It means 'Once upon a Time....' in English.

But whilst I try to give you texture and the warmth of the stone environment there are so many doors that must lead to almost endless worlds and human families. I play the game of spot the satellite dish!

OK, satellite dishes, but look into the door surrounded by wisteria.......

Upstairs downstairs

The hills are always close by.

No 22 is only a handshake away from......

No 24!

 I had a 'golden handshake' just for a laugh.... 

If you want to buy into this wonderful village there are lots of properties for sale. Wonder why?

Back up to the village square the big tree stands for 150 years.

Plain trees and French village squares do it for me....

But William (Guilhem) after all his travels ended up here. After going there I can really understand why.

The arty shops are great. The style is fabulous.

Just to make sure you didn't miss it. There are no gargoyles like this on Wells Cathedral, more's the pity.

The best Town Hall (Marie) you will ever see.

And they built it on a bridge over a river, reminds you of somewhere?

Eau Potable really was quite tasty just like I know mountain water should be.

My prize for the best doorway goes to this establishment. Who knows what treasures, or otherwise, lie beyond.

So on my way back, here is where the Herault River leaves the gorges. Remember, it is pouring with rain! The Pont de Diable is an ancient stone arch bridge that no doubt has seen many floods and surges. I wonder why the Devil has so many bridges around the world.

End of post