L'Etang de Thau, Marseillan and Canal du Midi.
So what is so attractive about a bit of coastal France, not very pretty in itself and with no great architectural or social advantages. The coast of SW France is very popular, it has strong indigenous industries and is a popular tourist destination. But the sea water is cold (believe me, it is bloody freezing!) the facilities are not great, scenery is nothing to write home about, and it is not 'cheap'. So why is it so and what's it all about?
I will show you!
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It is a wet drab day in the Port of Agde, Saturday Market 29th Sept 2012. It is luchtime and they are packing up already. Could be anywhere. |
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At the harbour in Agde a few minutes later and the weather has turned for the worse and it is slinging it down. I got soaked and had to shelter before making the ride back to the campervan. Grim. |
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But look at this! Tuesday 2nd Oct 2012, a few hours later, a couple of miles away from Agde, at the entrance to the Canal Du Midi things have changed out of all recognition and the view is sublime. The canal of course is made famous for us Brits by the Prince of Padstow, Rick Stein. |
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The canal is reached from an inland sea, adjacent to the Mediterranean Sea. The water is called the Etang du Thau, and this is the Canal Du Midi at the entrance at Les Onglous. |
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The object of my attention this day was the village Marseillan, one of the ancient fishing and trading ports of the region. It all looks a bit flat and ordinary..... |
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Now we are at Marseillan, after half an hour on the cycling routes.
But notice the light! The sun is shining the clouds have gone and the place takes on a new aura. For those who might be interested, the phenomena is not at all a figment of the travel copywriters imagination, it is called 'Rayleigh Scattering' and is a result of sunlight being dispersed by the molecules of gas in the air. It makes the sky blue and all other things bright and beautiful, as you can see from this pic.
This geographic region (Langeudoc) has clean unpolluted air, usual low cloud levels and warmth and sunshine unknown almost in Northern Europe. The pollution is so low that oysters from the Etang (which translates into English as 'pond') can be consumed without further cleansing. The water, by the way, is crystal clear.
This light is the main attraction. It happens in many parts of the Mediterranean but non so more than at this coastal region.
Note the 'Joutes Nautiques' (jousting boats) which are used for a famous sporting event in the region. |
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The most famous industry in Marseillan is Noilly Prat vermouth, and the focus of my attention for part of the day. Rick Stein recommends it for his famous fish sauces! I'll have mine on the rocks please. |
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Blanc de Blancs. You can see why Noilly Prat use the mental image of such intensity. This craft is in the small harbour just across from the winery. |
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A lot of english accents were detected in the bars along the harbour! No not lager louts either! |
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But this is the 'light', typified by the intense blue sky and blue hues. The little harbour at Marseillan is bathed in wonderful light that uplifts the soul and pleases the mind. I also helps when the temperature is a balmy 25deg C! |
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The mandatory French municipal square and boules pitch! |
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The village centre was occupied by the local market. Strangely, markets in France seem to close at lunchtime.... |
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Now this caught my eye. I admire the French for their innovation and their directness at enterprise which is refreshing. I saw this contraption at the far side of the harbour at Marseillan and was impressed with the initiative of it all.
It is a kite surfing training facility! |
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The trainees, who on this occasion were mainly Asian students, use the 'tow' to get them onto the plane and practice surfing along. It looks quite difficult, but easier than a kite! |
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A nice compact training school, and looking successful.
OK James tell us about UK facilities.
Across the 'pond' the 'hill' on the right is Mont St-Clair at Sete at the junction between the Etang du Thau and the Mediterranean Sea. Notice the 'workers' in swimwear in the deckchairs. Wouldn't you like to work here? Bathed in this light? |
2 comments:
What a difference a few mile make, hope you had some oysters with a little Nolly Prat to was it done, ymm Sal x
wow, lovely and blue. Water so clear and lloked like not too many people either. Buildings a bit med plain but you can't not like the scenery. x
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