3 day's search for Hvar town

When visiting the island of Hvar it would be silly not to go to Hvar town itself. I am using 'Lonely Planet' as a guide and I am getting more frustrated with it the more I see of the places covered by the various chapters. Frankly it seems more and more to me that the travel book is an extension of the local tourist office, complete with overhyped information.
Lonely Planet describes Hvar town in glowing terms and I went to find out. I was disappointed, as you will find out.

Without sunshine the main square in Hvar would be very ordinary. It is used by various cafe/bars as an extension to their premises.

St Marks in Venice does this sort of thing, fancy seats in the square. Excuse for big prices for limited services.

The castle looks over the town.

The yachties are not there in big numbers yet

Yacht haven

Medieval Streets

I went back the next day in search of something more interesting. I had read of the Pakleni Islands in the Guardian. <<http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2009/jun/07/20-undiscovered-island-gems>>

To get there you have to take the water taxi...50 Kuna (£6) to Sveti Klement. The driver looked about 14.

The view is better from the water.

Passenger ships come and go frequently

Second best taxi ride (.....the best is across the lagoon at Venice on one of their speedboats)

Ah! so that is where the yachties have gone. The new marina at the arrival point

But when we arrive at Palmizana the surveyors are there in some force. Gawd knows what they are scheming for the 'development'

The only sandy beach hereabouts is artificial

So you can sit on the rocks and look at the view

More rocks and the island of Vis out to sea. The sea was magic, almost iridescent..

But the locals are out to wreck the place as quickly as possible. Trashy signs and artificial cladding is growing over the remote scenery.

More beach bars are opening in prime locations round the bay. I won't be back....

These two herberts were flytipping their building rubble in the bay! The vegetation was lurking with rubbish, old engine oil cans and plastic debris. The remote bays were covered with rubbish, especially plastic trash.

Domestic interior lighting fixed with gaffer tape....bloody dangerous!

Shabby signs

Crap development.

So I couldn't believe it. Some of the most remote and beautiful island locations are being wrecked by cowboy developers and shoddy building. I determined to go back again for a final look to see if there was anything saved from the mess.

But is was Sunday and the water taxi wouldn't take me...he wasn't going anywhere without at least 6 paying passengers. So I went off in search of anything that might save Hvar's grace.

They say the view from the castle is fabulous.

Walking up gave glimpses of what was to come..

Cute Chapel located along the route

You know the castle is there somewhere, but you can't see it.

Charmless undramatic entrance

Tiny door with a man waiting to take 25 Kuna from you.

But the view is in fact stunning

Hvar old town

The Pakleni Islands, with Vis on the horizon. Go soon before they are wrecked completely.

Hvar castle has been converted to a tourist theme park, complete with mandatory muzzle loader cannon.

The prison

Cute steps back down to town.

And they are arriving, the glitterati with their fancy gin palaces. St Tropez anybody?

So the best thing I saw in Hvar in 3 days searching was the sunshine, and the view from the Castle.

But Hvar has been a mixed bag, and the weather at times dreadful. Moving on tomorrow, Stari Grad to Split by ferry.

End of post..