Sunday, 22 May 2011

Rayol-Canadel-sur-Mer

OK, I will now show you why this is one of the most sought after destinations in the world.

This is Pramousquier, (viewed from the road at Le Canadel) where my campsite is located, but which you cannot see because it is in the trees on the right.

The beach at Pramousquier.

I was talking to a guy on the campsite from the Netherlands and he recommended a place to visit, so I got on my bike and went. This is just an every day view of Rayol-Canadel-sur-Mer.....Ha!

My destination was the Domain du Canadel which is now a mediterranean garden.

The view from the terrace is beautiful, showing the Isles D'Hyeres. 
Left to right, Isles du Levant, Isles de Port-Crox, and Porquerolles. The British bombarded them in the 18th century, and more recently the Germans built gun emplacements and the Americans destroyed them during WW2.

The view looking west

The view looking east..

The villa started life as a farm, and was rebuilt as a villa, ending up as a hotel, now a garden reserve.

The grand staircase

The pergola is in fact reinforced concrete.

But the view is sublime. I am going to list this as one of the 'special' series.

Pretty seats for the guests for lunch.

The mandatory garden gnome..

This is the prettiest cafe you will ever see.

OK, you structural engineers, work out the reason for this truss arrangement. Efficient it is not, but what grace...

The salmon pink tiles are ubiquitous..

The Mexican section to the garden....

I can't remember the name of these but I have never seen them growing 'wild' before.

Now these are Proteas, native to South Africa. 

Good but not as good as those in the Stellenbosch Gardens, but a good try.

How much of this beauty can you take...

More..and not a soul about but me!

The silly b****r taking pics in a mirror. The faint image says 'Le Jardin Marin' (Sea Garden)

The Sea Garden house by the beach...

And the headland.

The coves go on forever...

A stand of pines..

Sitting on this bench in the breeze with a temp of 28 deg is bliss.

Looking back to Parmousquier.

Can you smell the choicya, and the pines...

The yachties wil like this one...

So, there you have the Domain du Royal, a view from the terrace.

But there was a very famous person who lived hereabouts. I didn't realise it but I just cycled past his villa.

I had stopped to take a chocolate box piccy of this little house, just because it was there.

But I was on my way to the beach. I had my first swim in the sea today from this beach. Jealous? It was lovely. The thing that is really special is that the rocks hereabouts contain mica and flakes get into the water. The sun makes the sea twinkle with light, as if there are diamonds floating in it. Magic.
End of post

12 comments:

Anonymous said...

I can't believe that you have had no comments to date!!
What a fantastic blog...
We are staying at the Pramousquier campsite from 22nd Sept 2012, and will definitely be cycling to this attraction (as well as using the "Chemin des Pignes") & other cycle routes to visit St Clair, le Lavandou & Cavalaire.
What did you think of Pramousquier camping (there are mixed reviews, some really slating it)? I cannot yet believe (considering where it is situated) that it can be anything but divine...
Thanks for an informative blog that will define part of our itinerary.
Paul.

Freeas.abird said...

Paul,
The lady owner of the Campsite at Pramousquier was charming and friendly. Her Husband is English and so she appreciated 'our' sense of humour.
I can only speak as I find. This is the nicest campsite of its sort in France. Maybe she took pity on me, being now a bloke on my own. It would have been our 45th wedding anniversary when I was there last.

But my pics show how beautiful the region is, and the weather is so benign.

But if you have an open mind, and I won't tell you why, go and have lunch at the restaurant at La Plage du Layet. Chez Joe is fabulous, the Bouillabaisse is out of this world and the location is devine. Make sure you book or get there earlier, it is a secret well kept by the locals. You will be astounded, trust me!


And don't forget to swim, as the locals do..at this beach you will swim in water sparkling with 'diamonds'.

But, as I said, park your inhibitions with you bike before you walk down to the beach.

Monty

Hope the weather is kind for you. Please let us know how you get on.

Paul walker said...

Hi Monty.
I kept checking your blog to see if you would reply, and am extremely gratified to view your opinion of Pramousquier campsite.
Interestingly, all of the negative reviews I see are actually penned by the French themselves, and might have more to do with the English half of the ownership. Much as I love the French (most of my family being so), I do still find a few who tend to treat the British with "disdain" on contact. My sister often sees this despite her French being now better than her English!
Anyway. You definitely speak my language when you mention bouillabaisse, but fear that I might be liable to be wearing it rather than digesting it when my wife surveys the view (c'est bien dommage)!
Do you know of any other gastronomic venues in the area? We especially appreciate a basic 3 course lunch menu that is good value. I so often find that it is towards the end of a holiday that I finally sniff out where the locals go...
The campsite looks exactly what I like most (basic, wild & beautiful), and we will be staying with the ACSI card at 16 Euros per night. It shuts on the 15th October, and we were thinking of them moving up coast 6km to Camping Bonporteau at Cavalaire. I don't suppose you know of this site or its reputation?
As for the sea, I had heard about the minerals in the sea that reflect the light so beautifully, and intend to buy a mask & snorkel to inspect the reef surrounding Pramousquier. The sea is still quite warm in early October, or so I believe.
I am a seasoned visitor to Provence with our Eriba pop-top(mainly Bouches Du Rhone) but we tend to avoid the "glitzy" areas such as Nice & Frejus etc. The Pramousquier area appears less comercialised to me & perhaps more down to earth, and we certainly hope it will be much more this way by visiting so late in the season (we only tend to visit France in Spring & Autumn)... We hope to find the area one we will wish to return to time & again.
I'm sorry to hear that you no longer have your lifetime companion with you, Monty. That must be extremely tough... Having said that, I immensly admire your independance in touring (as you do) on your own... I'd like to think I would be capable of it, but am not so sure..
Thanks so much for the info.
Paul.

Freeas.abird said...

Paul,
I would not presume to advise on eating establishments in that area...things change so quickly and it sounds like you will be out of season when you visit. But I will say, Chez Joe's will be quite OK in the evening, the 'sunbathers' disappear about 4.00pm when the sun goes behind the trees! Yes a pity to miss it!

I have learned by heart for suitable occasions: 'Malheureusement, ma chere femme est morte, depuis deux mille dix' Not sure if the grammar is quite correct but I haven't had the need to use it too much.

Yeah, really impressed with Eriba caravans....hope Hymer get it all sorted out in the UK after their main agent went bust!

But enjoy your travelling and keep in touch. I am getting the van ready for my next trip starting in September. Dordogne first stop.

Monty

Paul Walker said...

Hi Monty!
Found your other blogg on the Pramousquier campsite (strange, it was there all the time & I had missed it)!
I'm sure now those french reviews are just sour grapes & am rewally looking forward to our visit.
Your french is pretty perfect, and although i'm far from fluent, I can find no error there...
I WILL try Chez Joe's! Life is too precious to miss such opportunities (I have googled it and the setting is just absolutely stunning)... My wife, Steph, isn't keen on seafood, much as I pity her for the fact, but Im sure that they will be able to prepare her an omelette if nothing else... thankyou for putting yet another thing for us to look forward to on the itinerary!I hope that you have a truly stunning time in the Dordogne, and will be sure to return here to let you know how I got on post-Pramousquier!
Best regards,
Paul.

Freeas.abird said...

Paul,

It is difficult to get a decent image of the restaurant and Google earth pics are best.

But here is a closer pic, click the image in the link, it gives you an idea of the little pier on which the restaurant sits.

Cheers:
http://dismoiou.fr/p/fra/le-lavandou/PxXPNu/restaurant-plage-du-layet

Paul walker said...

Hi Monty,
I found this one too;

http://www.libessart.fr/chez-jo-plage-du-layet/

Looking at the menu, I'll definitely have to save up for that bouillabasse, although Im sure its worth it!!!
Can't wait...
Funny looking at the picture you sent (thanks), but it is so typical of the French... That pier looks as if it is about to snap into the sea... So typical of the French, as if it were in the UK it would have been shut down by health & safety years ago!
You are quite right about the changing quality of places to eat, although as you point out with Chez Joe's, there are always some constants...
If ever in Bouches Du Rhone, please vist Tarascon (a medieval town wiuth beautiful free castle & tonnes of Moroccan culture). As you cross the bridge from Beaucaire in the West... (Another amazing castle there... good audio guide I recall), you come directly up to the pleasure craft canalside area (free parking to your right). There are 2 restaurants just there side-by-side. Both serve lunch for 11 euros including wine & thrive due to their neccesity to compete with each other in quality. Try them both, and although the food is not exactly Roux brothers, it is always excellent quality and value for money.
If near Vaison La Romaine (excellent wid campsiote with good walks "Camping L'Ayguette"), visit the town square where many restaurants sit side by side. Ignore the rest, heading for the one that is also a bakery. Their 3 course lunch includes a small carafe of decent local plonk for around 13 euros. Dessert is always either ice cream or a choice of their excellent patisserie... Again, the very best for your hard earned euros to be had here...
You may already know of those places, Monty, but pop them in your diary somewhere should you be in those areas sometime in the future.
Adieu for now,
Paul.

Freeas.abird said...

Paul,
Thanks for your recommendations. I will put them in my Itineray, starting next week. Heading for the Dordogne first, then the Ardeche (Ceze), so La Bouche-du-Rhone is a probability.

Don't forget Chez Jo"s closes at the end of Sept! according to the Office de Tourisme.

http://www.ot-lelavandou.fr/index.html?bID=40&pID=97

Au Revoir,

Monty

Paul Walker said...

Salut Monty,
Duly noted.. We will book & go within a few days of our arrival. Im pleased to see that it is just a 2.5 mile cycle ride from the campsite.
I envy you your freedom, and at least when you are in the Ceze region (my sister lives not so far away in the Ardeche mountains) you can always head a little further South (especially if the weather is not so brilliant). We were in Provence last Autumn up to mid October, and although the Mistral was beginning to pick up towards the end, we were still enjoying temperatures of above 21 degrees!
We were at a pleasant & quality site (municipal), "Les Romarins" at Maussane Les Alpilles. About 18 Euros per night low season & almost empty (as most sites are) at the end of September, although you are close to St Remy and Les Baux. The nearby vineyard "Mas De La Dame" sells amazing VDPOC Les Baux red at around 5 euros a bottle, and there is a restaurant behind the church called "La Pitchoune". 16 Euro menu, but superb (get their house Les Baux red to go with it). The afforementioned Tarascon is a short drive from the site (as are all of the wonderful towns of the area).
Another few recommendations if you are ever in that area!
Bonnes vacances!
Paul.

Paul Walker said...

Hi Monty,
Glad that you headed back to Provence in the end (just read your blog re: boat storage in the Marseilles region posted yesterday... interesting stuff to be sure).
Just back from Pramousquier. Site was fab, staff were friendly & helpful, as you stated... please see my review & pics on Zoover... ACSI review coming up...


http://www.zoover.co.uk/france/provence-alps-french-riviera/le-lavandou-var/parkcamping-de-pramousquier/campsite



Swimming in sea was fantastic (snorkelling... will take speargun next year & eat for free as the locals do)... Resisted naturist bathing on grounds of need to preserve the unsurpassed beauty of the natural surroundings (beached white whales = ruined tourist industry)!
I did want to eat at Chez Joes, but we somehow never got around to it on the basis of too busy having fun with other things. Cycled from Pramousquier to Le Lavandou. When we had to leave Pramousquier (only 4 or 5 pitches occupied throughout our 2 week stay... bliss), we moved slightly West to Bonporteau... NOT recommended... Pitches too small, absolutely packed (why?), local beach a let-down after Pramousquier, Cavalaire (within walk) pleasant modern town but too touristy...
The saving grace was the cycle ride from Bonporteau back to Pramousquier... The most beautiful cycling stretch along the whole coast, apparently. Views incredible... We passed Domaine De Rayol, but the weather was so glorious we are saving that for a future trip too (although we did go to Le Rayol beach).
We are going back as part of our tour Spring 2013!
Bon continuation avec vos vacances, Monty (you lucky thing)... Just to let you know it's about 12 degrees & cloudy here in Shropshire & Autumn is in obvious full bite. I say that because I have a cruel streak and always like to point out the weather difference to my daughter in the UK whilst basking in the Med... I'm sure you're not so smug but reverse my behaviour in your case to allow you to treasure your current circumstances all the more.
Enjoy!!!
Paul.

Paul Walker said...

Hi Monty,
Just back from Pramousquier. Totally fab site (see my Zoover review plus pics here):


http://www.zoover.co.uk/france/provence-alps-french-riviera/le-lavandou-var/parkcamping-de-pramousquier/campsite


Didn't do Chez Joes this time (will in due course as I will be back prob 2013). Snorkelled in sea & totally amazing... Will take speargun next year & eat for free as the locals do!
The beach was really lovely & the cycle paths better.
We had to leave the site on the 4th due to its pending closure (pity)... We loved this part of the coast, so just moved 7km up the road to Bonporteau camping at cavalaire...
Funny, but pramousquier never had more than 5 pitches full (bliss), but Bonporteau was really packed, not as pretty, pitches too small (lucky we had really friendly Dutch neighbours) & beach not as nice. The only positives were the nearby modern (but pretty) town of Cavalaire & the AMAZING cycle route from Bonporteau back to Pramousquier... Incredible views the whole way, & much prettier/more natural than from Pramousquier to Le Lavandou. The views were incredible... We went past Le Domaine de Rayol (looked great & we WILL visit sometime), but it was so lovely we went to le Rayol beach instead...
In fact it sounds like we have ignored your advice completely! Not so, as all in good time... We were having such a great time doing other stuff that we will come back & do everything...
Thanks Monty for your great advice... Pretty cold & miserable back here in Shropshire, but I saw that you were near Marseilles just 2 days ago (great blog), and are still lapping up that fab weather... You lucky, lucky thing....
Bon continuation!!!
Paul.

Paul Walker said...

Sorry Monty,
I've mucked up the flow of messages here... Please see the message I just left; 3 posts below this one.
Paul :)